How to Winterize a Jet Ski

Things I alway carry onboard my PWC: PWC license & registration, copy of insurance, extra money, tools, spark plugs, zip ties, stainless clamps, small syphon, flammable WD-40, oar, extra drain plug, light stick, extra lanyard.

Having trouble starting your PWC? Try installing a primer kit. A primer kit replaces the stock choke cable and plate. A primer allows you to squirt a little gas directly into the carb for easier starting. My PWCs start on the first or second try- EVERYTIME. That's gotta save your starter some. You also get the benefit of increased airflow by removing the stock choke plates. I recommend a primer kit to everyone. It's cheap ($20) and really works- a must have!

Attention PWC owners with Mikuni carbs - Do you want to know how to properly tune and jet your carbs? If so, then get yourself a copy of the Mikuni watercraft carb owner's manual (make sure it's the 3/96 revised edition). This manual explains, in great detail, how your carb operates and how to tune it it for top performance. I've read many tuning guides before, but this manual is the BEST yet. Remember, an improperly tuned or jetted carb could mean a poor performing engine or at worst lead to a seized engine. Don't take just anyone's tuning and jetting methods as correct (Beware: there is a lot of poor or incomplete tuning information out there). Get this manual to prove the correctness those methods you may already know. All PWC are shipped from the factory to run at a variety of different altitudes and air densities. Even two of the exact same PWC may have slightly different optimum carb settings because of engine air-tightness and different cylinder sleeve port matching (all factory engines are not equal- Yamaha even rates the cylinder sleeve port matching from 0 to 16 on all their cylinders). Why not precisely dial in your carb for your engine and altitude. You download the manual for free (What a deal!) at: http://www.mikuni.com/fs-manuals.html (click on Super BN Owner's Manual). Or you can purchase this manual directly from Mikuni American or any Mikuni distributor for $5. Keihin carb owners - Find out if a similar manual is availabble from Keihin (let me know if there is). NOTE: Please don't attempt to jet or tune your own carbs unless you are mechanically inclined. Just as importantly, only let someone with proper carb knowledge jet and tune for you.

Here is the BEST tech tip of all: If you don't have the service manual for your PWC, GET IT! It'll be the best $50 you'll ever spend on your PWC. The service manual is an invaluable source of information on your specific PWC (make sure you get the manufacturer's service manual for your model and year). The service manual has detailed info on: all components on the PWC (engine, pump, electrical, hull, fuel, etc), troubleshooting guide, torque specs, and much more. I wouldn't attempt a repair without it.

Try a roller on the back of your ski trailer. I've got an 8 inch trailer roller bolted to the back of my trailer between the bunks. The roller will just make contact with the hull when the ski is fully on the trailer. I find that with the roller, I don't need to back my truck and trailer as far into the water (salt water where I live). The ski rolls right off the trailer with little effort. I also don't have to drag the hull across the bunks, scratching the hull. Just lift up the front of the ski and it rolls into the water. You can buy all the parts (roller, roller holder, and bolts) for under $20 at any marina that sells trailer parts. Just make sure that you get a clear roller, a black one will mark up the hull. Also to help get your boat off the trailer, try those new plastic bunk mates or just replace your bunks with plastic lumber. I've got them on my trailer and they work great. For a really inexpensive way to get your PWC off the trailer, Marc Wilkerson suggests to spray down carpet bunks with silicone spray about every six months.

Prop Repitching and Blueprinting:

Thinking of getting a new prop? Before you do, consider the benefits of repitching your exsisting prop. If you already have a good condition stock or aftermarket stainless prop, you may be able to gain performance and save money by repitching your existing prop. Even new props will benefit from blueprinting the blades and repitching. One reason you would want to repitch a prop is to match it to the machine's powerband. Most newer props are progressively pitched meaning that they have a smaller pitch at the prop's leading edge that transitions to a higher pitch at the prop's trailing edge. Example- a prop designated 15/18 is 15 degrees at leading edge that transitions to 18 degrees at trailing edge. By repitching, the leading and trailing edge pitches of stock or aftermarket props